Return to Joburg

As always when I arrive in Johannesburg, I get ill! I think it’s the altitude and the dryness. Hong Kong, we live at sea-level (looking at the sea), but here we’re at 1750m and about as far from the sea as you can get! Last time we were here in August we also had the cold to contend with and I woke up every morning with blood in my nose! This time, it’s hot, so no blood, but still the exhaustion – I wheeze up the stairs like a pensioner, and wonder if it’s really altitude or whether I’m genuinely getting old!

But it’s still lovely to be back – the friendly faces, clear sky and constant activity give me a sedentary energy (in my mind I’m moving…) as Kurt chats with the Uber drivers we are using because we don’t have a car yet. I’m loving Uber – I think I’ll still use it even when we have a car, just for the experience. The drivers all have their stories to tell. Life is hard, South Africa is in a mess, and yet one day….

Coming from Zimbabwe, Nigeria, Cote d’Ivoire, they’ve gravitated here, where there is work, despite the hardship. Some comment with glee that SA is heading the way of other African countries, some see that it’s still better than their home. A real mix, and a chance to get out of our ivory tower. Almost all have a positive spirit; ‘I am starting a business…’, ‘The company I was working for closed during covid, so now I’m…’, ‘If I can get another car I can make more money…’ And all love to share stories of family, and hopes and lives. Kurt can pontificate and they listen patiently then burst out into laughter and agree that the younger generation have no idea and they need to learn life skills such as using landmarks to find their way, and knowing phone numbers, and greeting people properly.

My best Uber trip so far was with a guy who was clearly going places. He had lived in France and was so political it was a joy to hear his vision and insights. I suspect he’s up there in some union or political party – I’d vote for him.

My funniest trip was getting picked up from the hairdresser’s. The guy was bigger than his car and grumpy, like a cartoon figure. The car laboured under the weight of us both and we drove in silence. Then I offered him a chewing gum. He immediately perked up, as did his car and we zoomed home in record time! I think he was just hangry.